Archiv für den Monat: September 2014

tasting burgund premiers crus

Offiziell sind die Premiers Crus nur zweite Klasse in Burgund – aber erbringen ohne weiteres Weine in Grand Cru Dimensionen. Dies stellte eine Masterclass am letzten Samstag im Relais & Châteaux Rosengarten in Kirchberg (Austria) beeindruckend unter Beweis. Highlights waren der Meursault-Flight mit den Top-Lagen Perrieres, Charmes und Genevrieres sowie die Nuits-St-Georges Session mit Les St-Georges, Vaucrains und Les Cailles. Bei einer Revision der Klassifizierung wären diese Lagen ohne weiteres Anwärter für den Grand Cru Status. Nachfolgend die Weine in der Einzelkritik:

Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Chassagne 1er Cru Cailleret 2008 – pure / mineral nose / fine oak / medium body / racy acid / good grip / precise / medium depth and length / – 2025 / 17,0

Domaine Leflaive, Puligny 1er Cru Les Pucelles 2008 – developed nose / very ripe fruit / ethereal notes / creamy / soft / round / underlying fresh acid / good complexity and length / oaky finish / 17,5 / – 2022

Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Batârd-Montrachet Grand Cru 2008 – restrained / powerful / dense / great intensity and depth / needs time / 2018 – 2035 / 18,5

Comtes Lafon, Meursault 1er Cru Charmes 2005 – / pure / developed / nutty / full body / medium acid / textured / very good length / oaky-nutty finish / – 2025 / 17,5

Francois Mikulski, Meursault 1er Cru Genevrieres 2008 – ripe apple notes / medium body / lot of energy and freshness / salty – mineral finish / fine / – 2030 / 17,5+

Pierre-Yves Colin, Meursault 1er Cru Perrieres 2010 – spicy and mineral notes / greath depth and focus / long / impressive / very fine indeed – 2035 / 19,0

Comte Armand, Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux  2005 – slightly developed ruby red / ripe fruits / combote / plummy / full body / balanced tannins / good concentration but lacks a bit energy / good length 17,0

D´Angerville, Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds 2003 –  medium brown red / Banyuls like nose / spicy notes / complex / shows good freshness in context of the vintage / soft tannins / good precision and length / fine / 17,5 / – 2020

Henri Boillot, Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens 2009 – surprisingly developed / red fruits / lacks depth and weight / lighter style / quite short / 15,5 / – 2018

Henri Gouges, Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru Vaucrains 1999 – developed / gamey / ripe fruit  / masculine style / sturdy / good grip and freshness / very good length  – 2022 / 17,5

Henri Gouges, Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru Les St-Georges 2001 – developed medium ruby red / focused / concentrated / grippy yet balanced tannins / very good structure / long / very fine / – 2030 / 18,0+

Robert Chevillon, Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru Les Cailles 2005 –   slight developed ruby red / very ripe fruit / structured / balanced tannins / very good depth and length / needs more time to develop complexity / 2017 – 2030 / 17,5++

Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne 1er Cru Les Suchots –  slightly developed ruby red / ripe fruits / combote /  medium body / velvety / polished tannins / elegant style / good concentration and length / fine / – 2023 / 17,5

Jean Grivot, Richebourg 1993 –  medium brown red / focused / needs time in the glass to develop complexity / truffle / ash / spicy / structured / very good freshness, precision and length / very fine / 18,5 / – 2025

Meo-Camuzet, Vosne 1er Cru Aux Brûlées 2002 –  ripe red fruit / oaky notes / medium intensity / silky / fine tannins / well done but lacks a bit personality / good length / 17,0 / – 2025

Groffier, Chambolle 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 2006 – medium brown-red / evolved nose / intense spiciness / slighty rustic tannins / lacks concentration, energy and development in the glass / disappointing / now / 15,0

Perrot-Minot, Chambolle 1er Cru Charmes 2005 –  sweet ripe fruit / touch of oak / silky / fine tannins / elegant style / forward / good length / 17,5 / – 2028

Comte Georges de Vogüé, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 1997 –  slightly dump nose / evolved / broad / full body / sturdy / lacks finesse / medium length / now / 15,5

Armand Rousseau, Gevrey 1er Cru Cazetiers 2009 – still primary stage / good grip / firm yet balanced tannins / vibrant / mineral backbone / good length /  2017 – 2030 / – 17,5++

Dujac, Gevrey 1er Cru Aux Combottes 1997 – brown-red color / evolved / gamey / fullish / rich / medium length / – 2018 / 16,5

Bruno Clair, Gevrey 1er Cru Clos St-Jacques 1999 – developed nose / gamey – spicy – dried fruits / complex / shows very good depth, intensity and balance / persistent / – 18,0 / – 2025

master of wine theory examination

Gestern um 13.13 Uhr kam aus London das Ergebnis des Master of Wine Theorie Examens, welches ich im Juni absolvierte: Bestanden!!! Es war langer und steiniger Weg mit frustrierenden Momenten, Zweifeln und Phasen der Selbstmotivation – vor allem im letzten Jahr, als ich knapp scheiterte. Auf der anderen Seite aber auch verbunden mit vielen unvergesslichen Momenten, Erlebnissen und Bekanntschaften – verbunden mit der wohl einmaligen Möglichkeit, tief in die globale Welt des Weines einzutauchen. Nun ist der Weg frei für den dritten Teil der Challenge Master of Wine. Das kommende Jahr steht unter der Überschrift Research paper – hoffentlich verknüpft mit dem krönenden Abschluss im September 2015.

Nachfolgend die Fragen, welche ich im Juni beantwortete:

Theory Paper 1 – The Production of Wine – Part 1

How can viticultural and winemaking techniques influence aromatic compounds in wine? Refer to wines made from Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir.

Why do winemakers use different fermentation temperatures? Refer to white and red table wines.

What are the quantitative and qualitative implications of young and old vines?

Theory Paper 2 – The Production of Wine – Part 2

Assess the role of oxygen in the maturation of fortified wine.

Why are fining agents required during winemaking, and what factors influence the choice of fining agent?

Consider micro-oxygenation as an alternative to barrel ageing.

Theory Paper 3 – The Business of Wine

Which factors are the most important for the long-term success of a wine brand?

How close should a producer be to the end-consumer? What are the best practical means of creating that relationship?

What would be the implications of a short harvest in 2014 in European vineyards?

Theory Paper 4 – Contemporary Issues

Does the wine industry lack innovation?

To what extent is fake wine a problem in today’s wine market?